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MOROCCO2003
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Be Warned: A First-Time Visit to Morocco will Likely Lead to Many More

The Kingdom of Morocco is an incredibly diverse country, inhabited by some of the most genuinely warm and hospitable people any visitor could hope to find. Moroccans are also fiercely proud of their long history of openness to the world and tolerance for other faiths. “Morocco is a special, different sort of destination, with a strong tradition of hospitality,” said Adil Douiri, Morocco’s Minister of Tourism.

Olivier Rousseau, former President of the American Chamber of Commerce in Morocco describes Morocco as “a great country with friendly people and an ideal climate.” In many ways comparable to California in both climate and topography, Morocco is a major destination for sun worshippers and outdoor sports enthusiasts alike. When in Morocco even hot mornings along the coast will invariably become cool afternoons. The sea breeze is only one of the many natural gifts providence has bestowed upon the Kingdom. Surprisingly close to the United States, the six hour flying time between New York and Morocco equals the length of a trip from the U.S. East Coast to California.

Particularly hard hit by the post-September 11 travel slump, the Kingdom is pushing hard to attract 10 million visitors to the Kingdom per year by 2010. As part of this plan, several major initiatives are underway.

The Moroccan government is in the initial stages of a project known as the Plan Azur (Coastal Plan) to upgrade and significantly add to the nation’s long-neglected beach resort industry. With almost 2,000 miles of coastline stretching from the Atlantic coast above Mauritania to the Mediterranean shores abutting Algeria, there is enormous potential for the beach resort industry. The country has traditionally devoted 2/3 of its investment capacity towards cultural tourism and 1/3 towards beach tourism. “This must change for the economic well-being of Morocco and its tourism sector,” according to Douiri. Once beach resorts are built up, “this will necessarily allow for much needed investment in the cultural tourism infrastructure.”

Eco-tourism is fast becoming a major industry in Morocco, with mountain biking and trekking adventure tour packages increasingly offered by tour operators. A USAID-funded program to create rural tourist circuits at different locations in Morocco is in its first year. Towns and villages near potential sites are witnessing the installation of the infrastructure needed to accommodate thousands of tourists per year. Douiri, explains that several sites “in the Rif Mountains in the north and in the Atlas Mountains in the south have great development potential” with “the mountains offering beautiful places to walk around.” “Morocco is so diverse and there are so many things to be seen, that we will develop many sites.”

The ancient Imperial Cities of Rabat, Marrakech, Meknes, and Fez beckon the traveler to a distant time and place. The Roman frontier city of Volubilis (known as Oulili in Arabic) is more than worth several hours of examination and contemplation. The Casablanca of Bogart and Bacall fame is a vibrant, modern city that exudes a Mediterranean ambiance equal parts North African and southern European. It is Morocco’s financial and industrial hub, and with around four million inhabitants. To the north lies Tangier, on the southern shore of the Strait of Gibraltar, a mere eight miles from the Spanish coast. It was here that a free-wheeling, anything goes atmosphere existed during the city’s status as an international port from the time of the 1906 Treaty of Algeciras until Morocco’s independence from France in 1956. It is now much more sedate, but still a fascinating place to explore.

Each of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities has a distinctive character, all worthy of a visitor’s interest.

Rabat is a vibrant mix of old and new, from ancient fortifications steeped in millennia of history to state-of-the-art internet cafes. The permanent home of the royal family as well as the Kingdom’s capital city, Rabat is situated along the Atlantic coast on the banks of the Bou Regreg River. Walking along a main thoroughfare in Rabat, a visitor may pass by orange trees fully-laden with their juicy harvest. (Add my picture of orange trees in Rabat.) Rabat’s sister of Sale lies on the river’s opposite bank. Sale is a bit more rough and tumble than its neighbor, but boasts one of the oldest mosques in the country, a beautifully restored 14th century religious school (medersa), and a well-preserved, still active medina. (Could add opening paragraph of North, South article here)

Marrakech is perhaps the most famous of all Moroccan cities. Name recognition is key in the tourism industry, and Douiri explains that “the brand of Marrakech is much stronger than even the brand of Morocco itself.” Aso known as the “Red City” due to the pinkish hue of its ancient walls and buildings, Marrakech is the crown of Morocco’s tourism industry. This is due to the city’s many majestic palm trees, its location at the foot of the majestic, snow-capped peaks of the High Atlas Mountains, a pleasant climate, and a plethora of historical sites dating back to the 11th century. Towards that end, upon his accession to the throne in 1999, one of His Majesty King Mohammed VI’s first actions was to order the removal of the hordes of pushy, often intimidating, would-be guides from the city’s streets. With this problem now a thing of the past, visitors are free to explore in peace the many pleasures that make Marrakech such an exciting and mysterious place. Entrepreneurs still offer their services as guides, but are for the most part kept in check by law enforcement officers tasked for this purpose.

Meknes could legitimately be called the “undiscovered” Imperial City. Located slightly more than halfway between Rabat and Fez, Meknes is in the heart of Morocco’s blossoming wine country in a region that has clung to its French colonial history the tightest. Meknes was chosen by Moulay Ismail, the Alaouite sultan who ruled Morocco from 1672 to 1727, to be his Imperial capital. The creation of Imperial Meknes was the Sultan’s attempt to emulate the Versailles of his much-admired contemporary Louis XIV of France. The result is a beautiful city located within a fairly compact area seemingly designed with the weary tourist in mind.

Fez, one of the most prestigious centers of learning in the ancient world, is a magical place where one is squeezed into impossibly narrow “streets” and the only conveyances are heavily laden donkeys and mules vying for space with the teeming crowds. Fez dominated the city’s religious, cultural and political life for 1,000 years, until the French arrived in 1912 and moved the capital city to Rabat. As dusk settles into moonlit evening and the Muslim call to prayer wafts over the hilltops, the constants of time and space seem to lose their grounding and it is easy to become lost in contemplation and thoughts of Stories from the Thousand and One Nights. Fez is really three cities in one. The oldest, Fez al Bali “old Fez”, was founded in the early 9th century. Fez al Jadid “new Fez”, was built alongside in the 13th century. Finally, the Ville Nouvelle, or “new city” was constructed by the French in the early years of the 20th century. UNESCO’s Cultural Heritage Plan for Fez is improving the infrastructure of the ancient city, which is one of the most complete and fascinating medieval cities in the world.

Morocco is hooked on festivals. During the spring and summer months festivals are as common as the sun is bright. One of the most renowned is the annual Fez Sacred Music Festival, which takes place over a two week period in late May and early June. The event, highlighting religious music from around the world, is staged in a spectacular setting, along the ancient ramparts of the old city.

Morocco is a land of culinary delights, with its cuisine considered by many to be on a par with French, Indian, and Chinese. One of the reasons for this gourmand’s paradise is the freshness of the ingredients. From the meat to the produce to the spices, if it is eaten in Morocco odds are it is from Morocco. Some of the more well-known dishes include pastille, which is pigeon (yes, pigeon) or chicken, egg, and almonds, in layers of filo pastry and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Tajine is a sort of stew which can be lamb, chicken or beef-based, and is cooked with olives, onions, and other vegetables. Couscous, a type of tiny, round-shaped pasta, is served with vegetables and lamb or chicken. Harira soup a rather spicy concoction, is popular, as are the much-loved Moroccan patisseries (pastries).

Summing up all that Morocco has to offer is a difficult task. I think perhaps Hilton Rabat General Manager Olivier de Kermel said it best. “Morocco is a beautiful country with 2,500 kilometers of coastline, great food, sunny weather and very nice people.” Very nice people indeed. Above all else, it is the memory of the kindness and very real warmth of the Moroccan people that the visitor to the Kingdom of Morocco will take home and that will invariably move he or she to return again.

 

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