Photo by Walter P. Berry

When UNESCO inscribed Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park on its highly respected World Heritage List in July 2004, its citation could not have been more impressive. “[Champaner is] a concentration of largely unexcavated archaeological, historic and living cultural heritage properties cradled in an impressive landscape which includes prehistoric sites, a hill fortress of an early Hindu capital, and remains of the 16th century capital of the state of Gujarat. The site is the only complete and unchanged Islamic pre-Mughal city.”

Champaner is indeed unique. It is about three hours by road from Ahmedabad, Gujarat’s biggest city. This formerly magnificent metropolis served as the capital of Gujarat for just 53 years (from 1484 to 1537) before being sacked by the Moghuls.

The then-extensive and eclectic city of Champaner was first built by the Hindu King Vanraj Chava, back in the 8th Century. Even today its walls and fortifications look thick enough to deter any invader. This is deceptive. In 1484 the city was captured by one Mahmud Begada, the Moslem Sultan of Gujarat, after a devastating 20-month siege. The city was renamed Muhammedabad, and the capital was moved there from Ahmedabad.

Sultan Begada then went on a twenty-year building spree, constructing mosques, palaces, splendid gardens and administration buildings. One of the most notable of his many constructions is the Jama Mosque, which also incorporates Hindu, Buddhist and Jain motifs. Clearly, religious tolerance was the order of the day.

There are two main precincts within Champaner. The first is the Hissar-i-Khas, or the Royal Enclosure, housing the present-day Champaner village and government offices. The other precinct, the Jahanapanar, or City of the Sultanate of Champaner, is mostly still buried underground – one notable exception being the aforementioned Jama Mosque.

The biggest structure (at least among those so far excavated at Champaner) is the Royal Mosque (Masjid-i-shah). No fewer than 112 pillars support the multi-domed roof, with two tall minarets at the front. Stepping inside from the heat of an Indian summer day is like walking into an air-conditioned bank vault.

However most visitors prefer the smaller Jama Mosque. The spectacular interior somehow conveys an impression of lightness and airiness despite the weight of its huge stone-domed roof. Its amazing acoustics mean that you can almost hear a whisper from the other end of the room. Fifty-two pillars support the roof, while the outside walls are decorated with Buddhist lotus-flower carvings.

Towering over Champaner is Pavagadh Peak, nearly a half mile high. From the foothills you can see the colossal fortified walls, the attack gate with its 72 catapults, Wada Talao Lake, the ponds and the step-wells and all the other trappings of the past days of glory. And atop Pavagadh Peak itself, monkeys and wood pigeons play among the treetops, while leopards are said to roam the slopes at night.

Maa Mahakalika Temple, sacred to Hindus, also sits atop Pavagadh Peak. And right opposite the temple is a supremely restful (albeit government-run) guesthouse, with 270 degree views over the surrounding countryside.

Most people still visit Champaner on a day trip. But with views like this, who would be in a hurry to leave?