Mr. Firoz U Khan is a most unusual Gujarati. “I’m a strict non-vegetarian!” he says. In this he is different from the vast majority of the people of Gujarat, for whom vegetarian food is the norm.

But this is no ordinary vegetarian food. The Gujaratis have raised the art of cuisine to an art form. Using simple ingredients – pulses, potatoes and other vegetables, rice and wheat (for making naan and other breads) and dairy products, even an average Gujarati meal is transformed into a feast.

The key is the thali – a large plate (often of stainless steel) upon which a dozen or more small dishes are served. Dishes might include curried potato, vegetable fritters or pakoras, subtly spiced lentils, turiya maag (gourd cooked with chilli, ginger and turmeric), saffron rice, various breads, and buttermilk spiced with cumin. In addition to the spices, sugar and lemon are used copiously during preparation.

Gujarat has three main climatic regions, with each region having a distinctive style of cuisine. The Saurashtra Peninsula produces sugar cane, wheat, millet, peanuts and sesame, and is famous for its pickles chutneys and debras, made from wheat flour mixed with spinach, green chillies and yoghurt. Kathaiwar, in the west of Saurashtra, is famous for its dairy products.

Surat, in southern Gujarat, produces a prodigious array of vegetables and fresh fruit, and even more sugar is used than in other regions. A favourite winter-time dish of Surat is undhyoo, made from potatoes, aubergines, green beans and other vegetables. In the northern Kutch region, the staple dish is khichdi, a mixture of spiced lentils and rice served with a savoury curry.

Gujarat is a “dry” state, meaning that alcohol is not generally available; however, it is possible for hotels to obtain a permit to serve liquor to their guests. I met one Muslim hotel owner who, unlike most Muslims, is a vegetarian by family tradition.