Photo by Walter P. Berry

It is said that Gujarat was settled over 8,000 years ago, by a fisher tribe known as the Nishads. The present-day Koli, Macchi-Kharwa and Maliya-Miyana, just a few of the bewildering variety of tribal peoples in Gujarat, are said to be their descendants. Around 3,000 BCE, Gop culture emerged. A temple in the city of Gop (about 25 miles from Mahatma Gandhi’s birthplace of Porbandar) still survives.

Gujarat’s long seacoast has for centuries attracted merchants, explorers and settlers from around the globe. In the fifth century BCE, Ionians, Beks and Greek tribes ventured as far as the west coast of Gujarat, and their genetic legacy can still be seen amongst the many different ethnic groups of the state.

The city of Junagadh, on the Saurashtra Peninsula is home to over 30,000 Sidhi people, of African origin. The Garbha (harvest) Dance of Junagadh has its own special features, including African-style drumming and strong, pounding rhythms. Arabs, Portuguese and other seafaring peoples have also left their imprint in Gujarat.

The hills districts of southern Gujarat are home to some of India’s most intriguing tribal groups - the Bhils, Kolis, Kunbis and others of the Dangs and Panchmahal districts. The Bhils in particular are some of the oldest peoples in India. They still hunt with bow and arrow, and their body-paint adornments are strikingly reminiscent of the dot-painting works of Central Australian aborigines.

In the west of Gujarat, the village of Bhirandiyara is one of the villages of the Banni region, just north of Bhuj. The Banni villages are also renowned for their remarkable handicraft skills.

The women of Bhirandiyara specialize in patchwork (appliqué design) and Harijan embroidery. The textiles have become almost a form of currency, and form the most important part of the dowry still paid to the husband’s family at the time of marriage. Often, the woman doesn’t even get to meet her husband until the day of the marriage—so her embroideries are said to act as advance emissaries of her dexterity and craft skills.

The villagers of Mulada (near the Little Rann) are mainly of the Sorathia Rabari tribal group, and like many other Rabari are dairy herders by tradition. Their white dhotis (long dress-like garments) and wooden staves are their hallmarks. They can often be seen herding their cattle along crowded country roads.

The original Rabari are said to have married not women but goddesses. This statement seems to have more than a whiff of truth. Rabari women are tall and self-assured, and take pride in their business and craft skills.

A case in point is Lilu Sangh, the wife of dairyman Jay Sangh. Her spotless house is adorned with Toran hangings (a Rabari specialty, consisting of richly-embroidered, mirror-studded pennants hung over a doorway for good luck). She herself is a glittering, walking art gallery - from her richly tattooed forearms to the colourful crimson cloak covering her head and upper body.

Another must-visit village is the remarkable craft settlement of Bhujodi, just outside Bhuj. The Shrujan (“Threads of Life”) Handloom Design Centre is of some interest; but more interesting is Bhujodi village itself, set up as the Hiralaxmi Memorial Craft Park, part of which consists over 70 family compounds housing mini-factories that produce hand-woven fabrics.

The visitor to Gujarat will be constantly intrigued by the people – from colorfully clad desert horse-riders to bow-wielding tribespeople from the dense forests of the southeast. While language can be a real handicap, those who make the effort to meet and interact with the many peoples of Gujarat will be very richly rewarded.