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SRI LANKA2003

Martin Trust outlines challenges to Sri Lanka’s apparel industry

Martin Trust urges Sri Lanka to continue with government reforms to improve the country’s competitiveness.
Photo by James Overly

Apparel industry giant Martin Trust, a principal force behind the growth of the Sri Lankan apparel manufacturing industry, says Sri Lanka must prepare to meet serious challenges now arising from new competitors and from changes within the U.S. retail garment industry.

In a recent address to members of the American Chamber of Commerce in Colombo, Trust, chairman of Brandot International and founder of Mast Industries, noted that Sri Lankan garment exports now account for nearly half of total Sri Lankan exports, with garment exports to the U.S. now composing 30 percent of Sri Lanka’s total exports.

Trust says Sri Lankan garments have maintained a unit value higher than garments shipped from Bangladesh or Pakistan, and continue nearly to match the total value of Indian garment exports to the U.S. But, he warns, China is now in first place in both textile and apparel exports to the United States, and is “ready, willing and able to take market share from Sri Lanka.” Trust also advises that Vietnam is rising quickly among apparel exporters to the U.S.

Changes in the U.S. retail clothing industry also bring serious implications to Sri Lankan clothing manufacturers. Consolidation has reduced what used to be 32 independent department stores to three (and two of those three are talking of merger). The same phenomenon has occurred at the wholesale level, he adds.

At the same time, specialty retailers have grown to take significant market share, and private label retailers continue to show growth. These entities in turn are meeting new pressures from the “800 pound gorillas” of retailing – such giants as Wal-Mart, Costco, J.C. Penny and Kohl’s, who, Trust says, “are getting smarter everyday in their buying.”

The retail garment industry also faces growing pressure from associations and groups advocating various causes, from eliminating child labor to environmentalists urging greater use of recycled materials. Most of these groups are reasonable and can be dealt with, Trust says. Whether moderate or extreme, however, their advocacy can cost the industry dearly in both time and money, so they cannot be ignored. To sum up, Trust says, retailers will be looking for manufacturers who offer a “hassle-free” business environment, provide good labor practices with no child labor, and, of course, can deliver goods rapidly and on time.

Trust says he is confident that the “good, smart people” in the Sri Lankan apparel industry will be able to take these forces into account in their planning and operations. Trust urges Sri Lanka to continue government reforms and other changes to improve the country’s competitiveness. Trust also urges the apparel manufacturers to work closely with the retailers to learn precisely what changing expectations the retailers will have of their suppliers and manufacturers.

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