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| Some of the turtles arriving
on Costa Rica's shores have travelled from as
far off as Australia. |
| Courtesy ICT |
In the northern part of Costa Rica, in a tiny Caribbean
village called Tortuguero, a man addresses me at
the Jungle Lodge where I was spending the weekend.
He asked, “Are you interested in turtle hunting?”
My first reaction was to respond: Isn’t it
illegal, doesn’t it belong to the past, haven’t
we entered the next phase in evolution called environmental
protection? The man laughs, making me feel a little
embarrassed, and then says, “You haven’t
been in Costa Rica for very long, otherwise you’d
know what I mean.”
As we begin to exchange questions I find out that
the act of hunting turtle, in Costa Rica, denotes
waiting for the sunset and going to the beach in order
to seek out nesting turtles. I also discover that
Tortuguero, and its surrounding natural canals, was
once inhabited by indigenous tribes whose main source
of fresh meat came from turtles and fish. This occurred
well before pre-Columbian times, but surprisingly
eating habits did not change all that much when the
Spaniards came into the region. This area was so rich
in food that a few tribes, from as far away as Nicaragua,
San Andrés and Jamaica, used to travel to Tortuguero
in order to fill their storage pots with turtle eggs
and meat, as well as coconut and cocoa.
The inspiration to study and protect the Caribbean
Green Sea Turtle did not arise until the founding
of the Caribbean Conservation Corporation (CCC) in
1959. Archie Carr, the spiritual father of this non-profit,
became known world wide as a leading expert on sea
turtles. One of Carr’s main achievements was
the establishment of the Tortuguero National Park
in 1975. At the park, wildlife research is conducted
– both terrestrial and marine – issues of
biodiversity are explored, as well as reforestation.
Since the oxygen that we breath is partially derived
from sea grass—the primary diet of the turtles,
the Caribbean Green Sea Turtle fills a major role
in the ecosystem.
According to the turtle census, the number of nests
deposited on the beach doubled between the years 1971
and 1996. However, the number of turtles being hatched
has actually decreased. In 1986, it was estimated
that 187,000 hatchlings made it into the world. By
2001 there were only 1,600. As of October of this
year none have been recorded. Moreover, out of 10,000
eggs laid only five turtles typically survive. This
is among the primary reasons why local lodges, such
as the Mawamba, are promoting turtle-watching tourism,
using the slogan “Green Turtles are arriving,
enjoy them responsibly.”
Protecting the turtles requires responsibly staged
observation tours and an educated local population.
The goal is to reach a zero consumption rate of turtle
eggs and meat among the locals, contradicting a commonly
held belief that eating turtle eggs is a nourishing
and healthy practice. The CCC has introduced various
projects whereby the locals may benefit financially
from the turtles, implementing a conservation program
specially designed to train the locals in becoming
turtle guides themselves.
During my stay in Tortuguero my certified turtle guide,
Randall Hobsney Hernandez, explains that the official
observation period extends from July 1 to October
30. During this period an extended surveillance and
regulation regimen is maintained along Tortuguero
beaches. Hobsney prepares me for the hunt by advising
me on what to wear and how to behave.
He informs me that we will be departing for the beach
at 8 p.m., and that we are given two hours to find
a turtle. If we find one we enjoy a happy return to
the lodge. Including the guide, I will be in a group
of nine observers.
Hobsney’s instructions are quite specific. Regardless
of whether or not there will be thousands of blood
sucking mosquitoes along the route, we are not allowed
to wear insect repellent.
Turtles are especially sensitive to two things: smell
and light. If they detect that something is different
in their natural environment, they will not crawl
up the beach to lay their eggs, nor are they likely
to ever return to Tortuguero—a place where their
ancestors have been coming for thousands of years.
Hobsney points out that these turtles have traveled
here from around the world and that, according to
research, some of these turtles have been found as
far away as Australia! When these globetrotters arrive
on the shores of Tortuguero, they stick their beaks
in the sand to smell if this is the appropriate place
to lay their eggs. If those of us on the tour were
to carry the odor of cigarettes, alcohol, or perfume,
these sensitive creatures may very well travel all
the way back to Australia without having reproduced.
When we reach the beach at 8 p.m. I can barely
see a thing apart from millions of twinkling stars.
Why aren’t we using flashlights? It seems like
a very reasonable question. Hobsney explains that
nesting turtles are not only distracted by smell
but also by light. This is the reason why they nest
at night, and seek out the darkest corner of beach.
Obviously no cameras are allowed.
Turtles are so sensitive to the light that I was told
not to wear anything white, yellow or khaki. Black
clothing is preferred.
In complete silence we walk, most of us not knowing
how to differentiate the sounds of a turtle on our
left from the sounds of the jungle on our right. After
about thirty minutes Hobsney stops and tells us to
remain silent. “There it is, just coming out
of the sea, do you see it,” he whispers? We can
barely make out the form of this mother turtle, which
according to Hobsney looks like an average sized green
sea turtle, between thirty to thirty-five years old.
We all sit down in a circle as Hobsney explains the
eight-stage nesting process.
During the first stage, where we caught this particular
turtle, it emerges from the sea. Apparently this is
the most sensitive stage, and that is why we have
to sit still so as not to disturb the turtle, because
it could easily decide to return to the sea if it
does not feel right. Then it crawls to the end of
the beach, close to the bush, using its front fins.
Once a satisfactory nesting site is found, it begins
to dig a hole with the help of all four fins.
It continues to dig-- throwing sand out of the egg
chamber until it can no longer reach the bottom.
Once the turtle places itself on the top of the nest
and actually starts laying its eggs, it is less sensitive.
This is when Hobsney switches on the red flashlight,
and we take turns to see big white eggs falling into
the deep nest. It is actually possibly to touch the
turtle’s back during this stage. A phosphorescent
glow is emitted when touched.
After about fifteen minutes, the turtle covers the
nest with sand, even eagerly throwing some of it at
us. She conducts this important stage so carefully,
that it takes between ten and fifteen minutes. After
that, she returns to the darkness of the sea, and
swims to who knows where. The babies are ready to
born in 57 days. Without ever having seen their mother,
they crawl to the ocean to begin their lives.
Back in my bed at the lodge, I wonder where the turtle
is headed and ponder whether or not it will ever return
to Tortuguero.
For more information on turtle programs, or
adopting a turtle, please visit www.cccturtle.org.
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