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Contributed by Shawn
Larkin
 |
| Oftentimes, so many whales
appear on the horizon of the Pacific ocean that
you will not even be able to count them. |
| Courtesy ICT |
While much of the world is aware that Costa Rica
is one of the most bio-diverse places on earth,
few know that the most diverse group of large mammals
here are the whales and dolphins. They breathe air,
are warm blooded, and give birth to young who nurse
on their mother's milk. The thirty or so species
here range in size from the tiny Tucuxi dolphins,
living in the river waters of the Caribbean coast,
to the big blue whales more than one hundred miles
offshore of Pacific beaches.
One can observe these animals in a variety of ways
from all over the coast, and as is standard for most
of Costa Rica, there is far too much that one can
see during the course of a single vacation.
Take a trip to view the Costa Rican-born humpback
whales that summer here from Antarctica or California.
Or try to see the Atlantic Spotted dolphin, considered
the friendliest in the world. Would you like to see
a thousand dolphins gathered together at one time?
The interaction between the Caribbean bottlenose and
tucuxi dolphins can be viewed off the Gandoca Manzanillo
National Wildlife Refuge in the Limon province of
Talamanca. The small fishing village of Manzanillo
inside the refuge provides the boats and guides.
Responsible observation habits, meaning no chasing
or feeding of the animals, are mandated.
Swimming in the waters off from the refuge are tiny
pygmy sperm whales, and very large, black dolphins
known as pilot whales. The above mentioned Atlantic
spotted dolphins are curious and playful creatures
who will sometimes play with divers for more than
an hour in the clear, deep, blue water. Conducting
barrel rolls and synchronized dives with a few Atlantic
spotted dolphins is not an experience you will soon
forget.
Given names such as Black White, Viejo, Orit and Chope,
the children on the beach in Manzanillo can rattle
off the names of individual dolphins that appear offshore.
These dolphins are photoidentified by researchers
year after year. We know with whom they hang out with,
as well as where and when they like to travel. This
stands is in stark contrast to the Pacific coast,
where there a more whales and dolphins than one could
ever get to know.
Spinner, pantropical spotted, common, Risso's, striped,
and bottlenose dolphins might be found in pods numbering
over one thousand in the Pacific waters off Costa
Rica. They turn acres of the sea to a white froth
and their sound is that of a raging river. This spectacular
open ocean phenomenon can be seen during a day trip
off many Pacific coast beaches all year long. To view
so many dolphins jumping right next to the boat, for
as far as one can see on the horizon, is an experience
that cannot be adequately captured on film.
The orcas and pseudorcas, also known as killer whales
and false killer whales, the most powerful non-human
predators on the planet, also patrol Costa Rica's
Pacific coast. These two species might choose to feast
on the biggest shark that they can find or go for
even bigger prey and pack attack humpback or sperm
whales. Here in Costa Rica the nine ton, 35-foot orcas
are seen in groups of five to 15 while the smaller
20-foot two-ton pseudorcas travel in pods of 60 to
150.
Humpback whales, when they are not avoiding Orcas
and Pseudorcas, court, mate and give birth around
the Costa Rican Pacific bays and islands. Unique to
the planet, this area receives both northern and southern
Hemisphere whales, two distinct endangered populations.
Each hemisphere's whales are escaping the winters
of their feeding waters, thus you might see a humpback
whale any month of the year. But peak times are January
through March and July through September.
The likely mixing of genes between these two populations
could be crucial for the survival of these rare great
whales. Southern humpbacks complete the longest known
annual mammal migration when they journey to the massive
feast of Antarctic feeding waters and return to the
tranquil, protected, birthing bays of Costa Rica.
These whales are also famous for approaching divers
at the Cetacean capital of Costa Rica, Cano Island
National Park, often times with a curious baby whale.
Costa Rican humpbacks can also be seen from boats
and beaches all over the Pacific coast.
There are quite a few other species of Cetacea in
Costa Rica and they all share some of the same challenges.
While a few fishermen still kill Cetacea in Costa
Rica, in nets, for bait and for stealing bait, this
is rapidly changing. Many fisherman realize that dolphin
and whale observation is easier than fishing. The
boost to the local economies of fishing villages,
towns and cities from Cetacean tourism helps these
areas that often have limited options for economic
gain. Hopefully the demand created by educated tourists
will end the time of dolphin cowboy operators and
wanton fisherman. After all, the Cetacea were here
in Costa Rica long before any people.
You can help save the whales and dolphins of Costa
Rica by being a responsible tourist and only supporting
respectful operators, guides and captains. Most of
the research on whales and dolphins in Costa Rica
has been and is for the most part funded by tourists
who want to see the animals and have the money to
pay for the gas for the boat outing. Most people show
an instinctive sense of whether an animal is being
bothered or curious. Keeping a respectful distance
from the animals and letting them choose to interact
is always how the most amazing encounters take place.
One can sense the fabled intelligence of dolphins
and whales when they come over to your boat in order
to learn more about you. In the waters off Costa Rica,
such an event is a definite possibility. |