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COSTA RICA2002

Whales and dolphins welcome responsible observers

Contributed by Shawn Larkin

Oftentimes, so many whales appear on the horizon of the Pacific ocean that you will not even be able to count them.
Courtesy ICT

While much of the world is aware that Costa Rica is one of the most bio-diverse places on earth, few know that the most diverse group of large mammals here are the whales and dolphins. They breathe air, are warm blooded, and give birth to young who nurse on their mother's milk. The thirty or so species here range in size from the tiny Tucuxi dolphins, living in the river waters of the Caribbean coast, to the big blue whales more than one hundred miles offshore of Pacific beaches.

One can observe these animals in a variety of ways from all over the coast, and as is standard for most of Costa Rica, there is far too much that one can see during the course of a single vacation.

Take a trip to view the Costa Rican-born humpback whales that summer here from Antarctica or California. Or try to see the Atlantic Spotted dolphin, considered the friendliest in the world. Would you like to see a thousand dolphins gathered together at one time?

The interaction between the Caribbean bottlenose and tucuxi dolphins can be viewed off the Gandoca Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge in the Limon province of Talamanca. The small fishing village of Manzanillo inside the refuge provides the boats and guides.

Responsible observation habits, meaning no chasing or feeding of the animals, are mandated.

Swimming in the waters off from the refuge are tiny pygmy sperm whales, and very large, black dolphins known as pilot whales. The above mentioned Atlantic spotted dolphins are curious and playful creatures who will sometimes play with divers for more than an hour in the clear, deep, blue water. Conducting barrel rolls and synchronized dives with a few Atlantic spotted dolphins is not an experience you will soon forget.

Given names such as Black White, Viejo, Orit and Chope, the children on the beach in Manzanillo can rattle off the names of individual dolphins that appear offshore. These dolphins are photo–identified by researchers year after year. We know with whom they hang out with, as well as where and when they like to travel. This stands is in stark contrast to the Pacific coast, where there a more whales and dolphins than one could ever get to know.

Spinner, pantropical spotted, common, Risso's, striped, and bottlenose dolphins might be found in pods numbering over one thousand in the Pacific waters off Costa Rica. They turn acres of the sea to a white froth and their sound is that of a raging river. This spectacular open ocean phenomenon can be seen during a day trip off many Pacific coast beaches all year long. To view so many dolphins jumping right next to the boat, for as far as one can see on the horizon, is an experience that cannot be adequately captured on film.

The orcas and pseudorcas, also known as killer whales and false killer whales, the most powerful non-human predators on the planet, also patrol Costa Rica's Pacific coast. These two species might choose to feast on the biggest shark that they can find or go for even bigger prey and pack attack humpback or sperm whales. Here in Costa Rica the nine ton, 35-foot orcas are seen in groups of five to 15 while the smaller 20-foot two-ton pseudorcas travel in pods of 60 to 150.

Humpback whales, when they are not avoiding Orcas and Pseudorcas, court, mate and give birth around the Costa Rican Pacific bays and islands. Unique to the planet, this area receives both northern and southern Hemisphere whales, two distinct endangered populations. Each hemisphere's whales are escaping the winters of their feeding waters, thus you might see a humpback whale any month of the year. But peak times are January through March and July through September.

The likely mixing of genes between these two populations could be crucial for the survival of these rare great whales. Southern humpbacks complete the longest known annual mammal migration when they journey to the massive feast of Antarctic feeding waters and return to the tranquil, protected, birthing bays of Costa Rica. These whales are also famous for approaching divers at the Cetacean capital of Costa Rica, Cano Island National Park, often times with a curious baby whale. Costa Rican humpbacks can also be seen from boats and beaches all over the Pacific coast.

There are quite a few other species of Cetacea in Costa Rica and they all share some of the same challenges. While a few fishermen still kill Cetacea in Costa Rica, in nets, for bait and for stealing bait, this is rapidly changing. Many fisherman realize that dolphin and whale observation is easier than fishing. The boost to the local economies of fishing villages, towns and cities from Cetacean tourism helps these areas that often have limited options for economic gain. Hopefully the demand created by educated tourists will end the time of dolphin cowboy operators and wanton fisherman. After all, the Cetacea were here in Costa Rica long before any people.

You can help save the whales and dolphins of Costa Rica by being a responsible tourist and only supporting respectful operators, guides and captains. Most of the research on whales and dolphins in Costa Rica has been and is for the most part funded by tourists who want to see the animals and have the money to pay for the gas for the boat outing. Most people show an instinctive sense of whether an animal is being bothered or curious. Keeping a respectful distance from the animals and letting them choose to interact is always how the most amazing encounters take place. One can sense the fabled intelligence of dolphins and whales when they come over to your boat in order to learn more about you. In the waters off Costa Rica, such an event is a definite possibility.




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